The D-Day beaches, straight off the ferry

The cliffs of Pointe du Hoc, D-Day landing site in Normandy
Photo: Jebulon, CC0, via Wikimedia Commons

If you are coming to Normandy for the landing beaches, Cherbourg is the right port and the Cotentin is the right place to start. Utah Beach — the westernmost of the five — is on our doorstep, and the whole American sector unrolls eastward from here: Sainte-Mère-Église, Pointe du Hoc, Omaha, then Bayeux and Arromanches. You do not need to drive to Caen to begin; you are already in it.

From the château, Sainte-Mère-Église is fifteen minutes and Utah Beach thirty. That is a first afternoon straight off the boat: the Airborne Museum, the church with the paratrooper still hanging from its steeple, then the wide, empty sand at Utah and its excellent museum. It is quiet, it is moving, and it is not the coach-park experience you find further east.

The second day is the long one: Pointe du Hoc (about fifty minutes), the American Cemetery above Omaha (an hour), Omaha itself, then Bayeux for the tapestry and the British cemetery, and Arromanches for the remains of the Mulberry harbour. Done from here, you drive east through the morning and home through the evening on empty roads. Done from a hotel in Caen, you spend the day fighting the traffic of everyone else doing the same thing.

We are not a museum and we do not pretend to be a guide; what we can offer is the base, the breakfast, an honest map and the names of the guides our guests have loved. The Cotentin also has its own quieter history — Cherbourg was the first deep-water port the Allies took, and the Cité de la Mer sits in its old transatlantic terminal. Our Explore Normandy pages cover the rest.

Where to sleep

Two nights covers the American sector; three lets you do it properly and add the coast. Rooms from one night; cottages from three, which is exactly the length of a good D-Day stay. Back to the ferry stopover guide.

Practical

  • Château ? Sainte-Mère-Église: 15 min · Utah Beach: 30 min
  • Château ? Pointe du Hoc: ? 50 min · Omaha / Bayeux: ? 1 h · Arromanches: ? 1 h 10
  • Two days for the American sector, three with the coast
  • Rooms from 1 night · cottages from 3 nights