Barneville-Carteret is the seaside resort of the Cotentin’s west coast: a harbour tucked into the estuary, long sandy beaches and the feel of a small town that lives all year round — market stalls, bathing huts, sailing boats and good restaurants.
The Cap de Carteret is the walk not to miss: from the lighthouse, the old customs officers’ path winds between heathland and cliffs, with the Channel Islands on the horizon on a clear day. Below, the Potinière beach has kept a touch of Belle Époque elegance. Come for the end of the day: the beach faces due west, and the sunset over the Channel Islands followed by dinner on the harbour (Le Cap, Marnage — see Where to dine) is one of the owners’ own rituals — directions.
This is also where the ferries leave for Jersey and Guernsey: a car-free day trip to the islands is perfectly doable from the château.
Stay at the château
Make the château your base for this and everything else in the guide: four B&B rooms from €95 a night, four self-catering cottages from €100 a night, 35 minutes from the Cherbourg ferry. Best rate when you book direct.